Introduction
It had been a long time since the desire to climb the highest peak in the Alps had arisen. Nevertheless, between desire and reality, the Mont-Blanc is not so easily tamed. It is an experience that leaves its mark. Mont Blanc can be climbed from several faces and various starting points. Here is a five-day loop itinerary from Chamonix to Chamonix, without a lift.
Day 1, Chamonix – Refuge of the plan de l’Aiguille (2207m)
The group consists of three people, François-Xavier (the guide), Marc (a Belgian), and myself. After checking bags and equipment, the departure from Chamonix, on the cable car square, is via a footpath, located to the left of the Grepon parking lot. The walk takes about 2h30 with breaks. The weather is splendid, as well as the view of the Alps.
Day 2, Refuge of the Shark (2516m)
From the plan de l’Aiguille hut, the trail continues through meadows and narrow paths to reach the foot of the White Valley, the Sea of Ice. It takes 4 hours of walking to reach the glacier.
It is at the terminal station of the Montenvers train that we prepare to face the glacier. Double bootie mountain boots are required and crampons should be kept handy.
The last wall to reach the refuge is via ladders that must be climbed. The total walking time is about 7 hours.
Day 3, Refuge of the Cosmiques (3613m)
To reach the Cosmiques hut, you need breath and impeccable physical condition. There is more than 1000m of positive elevation gain and the slope is smoother than an ice arena. As well as crampons and ropes are mandatory. It’s rough.
Day 4, Mont-Blanc du Tacul (4248m), …
Starting from the Cosmiques refuge, the route goes over the three mountains that must be cleared to reach the other side of the valley and the refuge of Tête Rousse, the final destination. The start is given around 2am. It is cold and dark. The climb to Mont du Tacul is rough and painful. A formation is set up in single file. Arrival at the summit around 6am.
then the Mont Maudit (4465m), …
Mont Maudit is the second bump to get over. Less slope, but a waterfall of ice to get over. The wait at the foot of Mont Maudit is long, if not endless. It’s the only passage and it’s jammed. Arrived at the summit around 8am.
and finally the Mont Blanc Massif (4808m)
The summit at last…Arriving around 10am.
Descent to the Goûter’s hut (3815m), …
Once the euphoria of the challenge accomplished is over, the descent is set in motion at a brisk pace. With the snow getting softer in the midday sun, it bodes well not to dawdle en route to the valley.
Arriving at the Goûter’s hut around 2:00 pm leaves a sci-fi feel. The architecture is simply out of time. A good hour of rest then the end of the course to the refuge of Tête Rousse. We pick up a solitary mountaineer at the same time.
to the, Refuge of Tête Rousse (3167m)
From the Goûter’s hut, it takes 3 good hours to get to the refuge of Tête Rousse, passing through the famous but difficult scree slope, a sort of vast field of rocks that is not very stable and in which you have to make your way. The arrival of this exhausting, but very rewarding climb of Mont Blanc by the three mountains, will have lasted 15h. A real madness, when you think about it afterwards.
Day 5, Way back to Chamonix
The way back to Chamonix will be by train, without having first passed through the playground of a chamois, not even frightened by our presence.
